Final Destination

3/18/07 – Today we’ve arrived at our final destination – the Serendipity Bay Resort in Palacios, Texas. After coordinating with the lock master, we passed one last swing bridge and traversed the twin Colorado River Locks – (without incident since all restrictions had been removed that morning). As a final trial we encountered another dredger cutting across the canal and a few more barges. Alone we motored into the Matagorda Bay as the winds began to kick up and seas swelled to 2-4 feet. (Ugh!) A few miles out we found our cut into Tres Palacios and found our way to the docks – BUT not without one final difficult landing. As I jumped off onto the dock the winds began to seriously push Refugio down the lane of other vessels (and not in a good way) I had no choice but to release the line as Tom gunned her from rubbing the sail boats docked next to us. Of course the line got tangled in the prop and halted any movement from the port engine. Just about this time two men came to our rescue and helped tie us off. We sat rather cockeyed in the slip for most of the day hoping for the wind to subside. It never did, so with strong perseverance Tom and I managed to pull her over the starboard side dock and secure the lines again. We’ve traveled over 1,300 miles to get her here; it’s been an incredible journey from start to finish.

As a PS - Monday 3/19 - I donned my dive gear and dove under the boat today to untangle the line, it was good to be UNDER the water instead of on top.

To Matagorda Harbor

3/17/06 – Like yesterday we thought it would be better to get an early start, now knowing what we were facing. In some respect made it better, but also intimidating. We passed through the Freeport Shipping Canal without incident and plowed on. It wasn’t long before we began fighting a strong current and began seeing lots of ‘large’ debris in the canal. We had to ‘do the dance’ while waiting for a few tugs to exit the Flood Gates; maneuver themselves to their barges and found ourselves lightly grounded a few times on soft mud. Once the Lock Master told us it was clear to proceed we started, but stopped suddenly with a lurch! (I hate that feeling) Yup, we’d bottomed out smack dab in the middle of the boat. While the tug operators watched on, Tom rocked us back and forth, back and forth until we finally worked ourselves free. We immediately proceeded to the middle of the canal; deeper wider water, cautiously moved through the Flood Gates, crossed the Brazos River and out. (Nothing ever seems easy any more). Being Saturday there are many pleasure crafts and the ever present speedy little fishers out. All sorts of folks line the banks; it is a pleasure to watch individuals and entire families out for a day of fishing and play. It’s actually a nice sunny day, and the winds have subsided, a wee bit. When we pulled into Matagorda Harbor a nice young man, David, helped pull us in and tie us off (even though the wind are keeping us nice and tight along the dock). Across the little harbor there was an old wooden boat. Turns out it’s a touring vessel, a ‘historically correct replica of a 15th century caravel’. After a nice yummy dinner at the Waterfront, a casual seafood restaurant, we strolled around the docks and found ourselves buying tickets to tour “Nina”. We met Captain Kyle and crew member Michael and talked of many things, sailing ships, cabbages and kings. We invited them down to tour Refugio later that evening, which they did.

To Bridge Harbor Yacht Club

3/16/07 - We decided to get an early start since we’d have to cross Galveston Bay this morning and need to be ‘fresh’ to tackle whatever comes our way. Good thing because the winds and seas kicked up something fierce. I’m talking white caps again. It was reminisce of our gulf crossing when I got so sick – but hey – I didn’t this time. Tom again had to maneuver around one of the big boys coming in on the Houston Ship Channel; I wedged myself in the doorway and watched. The passage lasted a long 2 hours and we found ourselves back in calm waters once past the bay. I found the Texas coastline to be rather wild and open. The waterway continues to expand and retract as we pass various inlets into the gulf. Little speed fishers continue to wiz by us in all directions and the occasional tug and barges are still with us. There are numerous fishing shacks along the GIWW, not the cute little houses with docks, just plain shacks. Our destination tonight is Bridge Harbor Yacht Club just before Freeport. The hard-hitting winds are still with us, which, again, made for a rather difficult dockage. Two other boater men came to our rescue and helped with the lines. Once tied up, a little Albin 27ft pulled into the same little U-shaped pier with us for the night. They reported just coming from the west and told us about their intricate passage through the Brazos River Flood Gates. Apparently many larger logs (aka uprooted trees) have been washed downriver from the recent storms.

To Stingaree

3/15/07 - It was spooky quiet last night - nothing moved, but after yesterday it was very welcome silence and being fogged in this morning added a special hush. Once it burned off we slipped out of Adam’s Bayou back into the GIWW. The waterways cut across the top of Sabine Lake which caused some unruly conditions; winds and currents. We learned to watch the barge ahead of us and when he started to turn sideways, we knew - caution strong current ahead. This mode of operation continued each time we passed any river or large body of water. At the intersection of GIWW, Turning Basin and Neches River there is what’s called the Texaco Tank Farm. This is the starting place or filling station for many of these barges we’ve been coming in contact with these past few days. Vigilance again became our position as we maneuvered around tied-up barges and tugs either picking up or dropping off. It also appeared to be the destination for a few of the larger vessels which had come in via the Houston Shipping Cannel. Interesting how some of the homes tucked behind a solid patch work of granite levee built their own decks to watch the parade on the GIWW. This levee continued on for many miles. As we passed Port Arthur we found it entertaining to actually recognize many of the landmarks from this side of the water we had seen on land a few years ago. Once past Port Arthur we again found ourselves in the quiet countryside with cows, and more cows. Islands and homes began to spring up around us as we approached the East Bay of Galveston. We found dockage at Stingarees Restaurant and Landing in the city of Crystal Beach right on the GIWW. (Restaurant, means no cooking for me tonight – yee haw) We were told to not go beyond the Bait Shop otherwise we’d find ourselves in shallow water. Our depth finder blinked at 4ft when we finally cut our engines for the night. Needless to say we decided to back out the next morning rather than try to turn around.

To Sabine Yacht Basin

3/14/07 – We arose early hoping to leave and stay ahead of an approaching storm, but it found us first. After an hour of watching our location slowly shift we threw out our other bow anchor, which seemed to grab quite nicely. The winds became fierce (reported 40 mph) and tried to blow our dinghy off the boat, so we wedged it long-ways across the pilot house, and tied it down again. At first sign of clearing we decided to ride it out on the waterways, pulled anchors and left Mermantau River behind. (Not before fishing the Captain's hat out of the water which had blown off his head while pulling up anchor) I continued to get weather reports from both daughters so we knew it wasn’t going to be a pretty day. The sun came out briefly and we had high hopes of missing the storms, but alas alas, it found us again. When we approached the Black Bayou pontoon bridge we were told the lock immediately following the bridge was down until 5pm which meant we’d have to wait about 3 or so hours with the other traffic. UGH! There were already two barges tied off waiting, with a few more coming down the canal towards us. Tom radioed the lock master to be sure our name was ‘on the list’ if that’s how they were going to lock us through. Of-course the rains came down harder as we coasted back and forth on the canal waiting. There are very few choices in these here parts of Louisiana when you’re on the water – we had no option but wait and proceed when called. Somewhere the gods smiled on us and it wasn’t more than 30 minutes later the lock master starting calling boats to line up for the lock through. We were the third called, behind two unencumbered tugs. We threw on life jackets and tossed lines around the cleats along the side wall, as the rains continued to pelt us. Once out the lock we continued through poring rain; an occasional lightening bolt with some thunder thrown in just for fun. (ARE WE HAV’N FUN?!) Fortunately, it’s not a freezing cold rain but with an open pilot house it makes everything wet. It’s very interesting being on the water in the poring rain; without winds, the waterways become smooth, taking on the appearance of blacktop. We managed to find our dockage for the night at the Sabine Yacht Basin just before the last of the storm blew through. We were not totally sure we were in the right place since I had attempted to phone them all day and never got an answer, now I know why. It’s like a boat burial ground and the buildings deserted; obviously another place that didn’t survive a hurricane. Those boats that are not half sunk already have clearly not been attended to for some time.

To Mermantau River

3/13/07 – This morning we were again treated to 6am rush hour, but the boats are now bigger and so was their roar. I just never knew so many folks went to work via the waterways. When we pulled out we feared for more wet weather since the clouds were so dark, but the sun came out not long after we left. Even with our wind-block-plastic-wrap the rain would still be a pain in our pilot house. As we continue, we see less and less commercial traffic, the amount of tug and barges has easily been cut in half. We only had one lock to deal with today; had to hold up for ½ hour while waiting on an east-bound 1000Ft 5 strung out barge to exit. When he did we were told to proceed and pull within 50 feet of the end to allow another barge to lock through with us - Crickies – 2 strung out right behind us on the other wall (Didn't I say - every day it’s something new). These puppies can be gigantic and we’ve seen, more than once, where one of them has nudged the river banks or plowed into a bridge (BIG Oops). Once more we had to wear life vests on deck while locking through. We passed another cable ferry, but it does not appear to be used often, if at all. It would appear the marsh lands are giving way to farm lands; my camera now seems to be finding more and more cows posing for pictures. Just as the little fishing shacks are transforming into smaller family homes. With the weather still questionable we’ve decided to drop anchor early today at probably one of the loveliest places yet. We are in an oxbow about 2 miles up the Mermentau River; surrounded by cypress (with their knees) and various other trees and bushes. This is truly beautiful and isolated. We have not seen or heard another vessel for some time and I don’t expect to hear any rush hour tomorrow morning. This evening we only hear the charming songs from birds and the occasionally slap of water on the hull. We both peeked our heads out at midnight and enjoyed seeing the many stars above. Way off in the distance, over the top of the trees, we could see the glow of a barge search light scanning the river as it traveled through the darkness.

To Intracoastal City

3/12/07 – This was a pretty quiet traveling day, only made a sparse 33 miles due an impending storm heading our direction. We pulled into the Shell Morgan Landing/Marina in Intracoastal City just before the first rain drops fell. If this storm decides to get nasty we’re hankered down for the night.
This is a small commercial marina and Refugio seems so much more at home here, there are other boats that look like her, no other small pleasure craft. We walked to the local grocery, Maxie Pierces, which is now just a trailer, with very little food, mostly beer, but she makes poor-boy sandwiches. She showed us the picture of her old grocery store, actually just the roof, totally submerged in Rita 2005. She has not rebuilt yet, but hopes to someday. We continued to travel with lot of tugs and barges on the GIWW, but have stopped taking pictures of most of them. Really how many different kinds are there?!?

To Charenton Drainage Canal

3/11/07 - A touch of fog this morning which burned off quickly and it remained cool most of the day. We thought being Sunday morning it would be rather quiet, but again, we were awoken by rush hour on the water. For 15 minutes the river was a constant buzz of motor boats. Again, being Sunday we were hoping barges took a day off, but not even close. We passed, and were passed by more barges today than any other day on this trip; too many to continue to take pictures of. Fortunately for us the waters were wide all day with outlets, inlets, canals and bayous’ which made for easier maneuverability. When we arrived at the Bayou Boeuf Lock we were pleased to discover it ‘open’ with no waiting or locking, even though there was strong current it was great to get through it without having to tie off or hang on. We also anticipated crossing paths with a cable ferry, but it was not operating as we passed so there was no cable for us to watch out for. We arrived at Morgan City where the Lower Atchafalaya River and GIWW combine which pushed us to 9.5 knots– the fastest we’ve ever gone. There continues to be a steady amount of debris in the river, either from the numerous shipyards we pass or Mother Nature herself. I continue to be amazed by this environment, this Louisianan Bayou region. It’s not just rustic in nature, but fierce in a realistic way. The scenery itself is the best attraction of all; cypress knees and/or mangrove trees; Spanish moss hangs everywhere, spring wild flowers blooming, pungent mud and buzzing bugs all over the place. It’s all so COOL. I wish I could capture it with my photos, and hopefully what I have taken will provide some insight to this day’s trip. We’ve dropped anchor just inside the Charenton Drainage Canal in front of a depilated abandoned barge which is finding its way back to nature. Seriously, it’s got trees, bushes and ferns growing on it. This barge is very much a rust bucket now so we didn’t want to get too close, but Tom couldn’t resist the opportunity to take a little stroll on deck. Our isolated canal didn’t last very long as two sail boats arrived and rafted together just downstream from us. Somehow, I’d like to screen in this aft deck. It would have been nice to sit out there tonight and just listen to the bayou melody and not be eaten by it.

To Houma

3/9-10/07 – This morning we experienced our first taste of rush hour on the water. There was a constant stream of speed boats whizzing by starting at 6am and giving us a nice roll out of bed wake up call. As we pulled out we are being following by a flock of birds, all crying out “fish, fish fish-mine, mine, mine” I know we look like a fishing boat, but really!!! The terrain is not at all what I expected to find this far south in Louisiana; it’s actually quite beautiful and green. Not just water surrounded by marsh grasses, but many different kinds of trees and bushes; some in bloom. Entering Larose we found ourselves again surrounded by shipyards. It’s amazing to see how they work on these vessels, some on the hard, and some still in the water. I’m talking BIG ships and we’re still not sure how they got there. Next to these operations are pastures of horses and cows, all very unusual – boats and grazing animals. We still have the many different barges and tugs to deal with, but we are learning their language. Do you know what a red flag two strung out is? We do! Or how about a two empty side-by-side? For about 3 miles today we tagged along behind a loaded two strung out, at 3.9 knots. (Aren’t you impressed?!?) It’s been rather another stressful day, weaving in and out of barge traffic; avoiding the various growths of water plants and debris, so we’ve decided to tie up in Houma (pronounced Home-Ah). The city marina is located right off the canal between twin bridges. This enables us to watch barge traffic all day. (Oh Boy) Houma is a nice little town, we had dinner at the Samari Dragon and decided to walk it off and see what we could find. What we found was reminisce of their own Marti-Gras celebration; purple, green and gold bead necklaces hung, or thrown everywhere. This is an old town with lots of pride and history. There is also a sizeable medical center right across the canal. We found a large size announcing a CASA festival next weekend. Those of you that know me know of my association and affection for CASA, it made me feel good to see this wonderful organization hosting what would appear to be a large event.
I was sitting on the aft deck watching a dad and son fish across the canal, when all of a sudden we all heard a very loud noise, much louder than any speed boater or tug. It was sea plane taking off UNDER the bridge; I’ve never seen anything like that in my life. It was too quick to grab my camera, but it would have made a great shot. After these last few days we’ve decided to take a MHD (Mental Health Day). It’s time to restock our food supply, get some laundry done and relax a bit before we continue with our journey.

To LaFitte (through New Orleans)

3/8/07 – We awoke to fog so took our time getting underway. Barges continue to tug along the GIWW (Gulf Intercostal Water Way) so we tucked in behind one of them as we pulled back into the canal. Not long thereafter we were sandwiched between the barge and another tug. The boat traffic became more and more relentless the closer we got to New Orleans. The GIWW crosses paths with numerous deep-water canals which connect directly to the Gulf of Mexico, it all becomes so industrial. Throughout the day the damage caused by Katrina was unmistakable in all directions. We did see a few vessels ‘on the hard’ and found ourselves actually lusting after their windows – wonder who has salvage rights? Our first difficult task of the day was the Industrial Locks. When we radioed the lockmaster, we were instructed to tie up off on the port side and wait, which we did. With the amount of boat traffic it is not uncommon to have to wait your turn. 30 minutes later out comes two side-by-side barges and in we go. It seemed rather silly us being the only vessel in this large lock, but it was great not having to share the space. Now I understand the phrase, “Mississippi mud” at least in color. The water is liquid mud and when it’s calm it’s like a Hershey’s milk chocolate bar. The Mighty Mississippi River is overcrowded with vessels of all sizes and shapes, everywhere. Upon entering the river we passed by a Navy vessel and had to avoid the Admirals’ Dinghy which was approaching from the opposite bank.
There is a choice of two locks to take through New Orleans, the Harvey Lock (granddaddy of all locks) and the Algiers Lock. Apparently the Algiers is mostly used by commercial, so we’re traveling upstream to the Harvey. It was a very intimidating 4 miles. Tom doing his best to stay off to the right and well out of the mainstream was hailed on the VHF radio, “Small white pleasure craft - this is Navy Security, please switch to channel 77” (Oh Sh**T) what now?!?! Apparently there is a Navy vessel just ahead that we are too close to; Ok, no problem. There were 3 navy skiffs surrounding this mysterious vessel, each skiff had guns on their bows and one actually road along with us till we were well enough away. By the looks of her we think it was a guided missile frigate – not sure what it was doing downtown New Orleans. The only problem with pulling back into the mainstream was the behemoth behind us, and getting closer every minute. We decided to pull over and wait under a bridge for it to pass, since traveling upstream (against current) we are doing about 5 knots and it was doing more like 10. Only a few more miles and we reached the Harvey Lock, where again, we were told to pull up to port and wait. This time there was nothing to tie off to so we bobbed in place and fought the river current for close to 45 minutes. Upon entering, the lock master informed us that anyone on deck had to wear a life vest. With our vast experience at locks this was the first time we’d heard this, but hey, we made the fashion statement. Leaving the lock we entered into an avenue of shipyards, it was like driving down an alley behind the river; so many places fixing and building ships of all sizes. (And lots of debris to maneuver around) Within the hour the canal became more scenic as the settings were much more relaxed. There were lots of nice houses and small working boats on both banks. We decided to tie up at the C-Way Marina on the Barataria Waterway, in the city of Lafitte. This was probably our worst dockage ever – not Tom’s driving but the marina itself. One of the first planks I stepped on flew up and almost smacked me right in the face. It felt like candid-camera. We did not have power, but were happy to be tied up somewhere for the night. Today was very demanding, but it was so awesome!

To Rabbit Island

3/7/07 – Such a splendid uneventful (and boring) day; nothing but wide calm water all day as we left Mobile Bay and headed into the Mississippi Sound. However, Tom did manage a tricky evasive maneuver through the shipping lane of Mobile Bay (That WAS the excitement of the day.) As we cruised by Biloxi, we waived “hi” for daughter Wendy. We managed to get 70 miles under our belt as we passed Ship Island, Gulfport, Cat Island, Long Beach, Pass Christian, Bay St. Louis, Pearl River and The Rigolets; settling for the night at Rabbit Island in Louisiana. This was a small little island with nothing but marsh grasses growing on it and numerous various birds doing what they do. We were able to circle around, pick our spot and drop anchor – smack dab in the middle of the waterway. This afforded us plenty of ‘swing’ room since we no longer have our stern anchor. Also, on the other side of the island were the remains of a sea drill after, apparently, not surviving Katrina. There was a very cool RR swing bridge not far from our location and we were treated with RR traffic most of the evening (Reminded me of home). Tomorrow we negotiate New Orleans.

To Petit Bois Island

3/6/07 - This morning we continue west in the peaceful Perdido Bay; as it thinned into even a smaller cannel. It didn’t take long however for the boat traffic to pick up, we passed the first of 10 barges upon entering these ‘more narrows’ I like to call them. Fortunately, we never got stuck behind any slow movers – just movers. They are doing a great job at maintaining the integrity of the canal – but this means lots of working barges and tugs moving ‘stuff’ to and fro. This far north there is lots of sweet smelling pines lining the channel, so much more different than the marshes and cypress we’ve been used to seeing. We passed LuLu’s Restaurant, owned and operated by Lucy Buffet (sister to Jimmy). Further on down the canal and on into Oyster Bay, there is much development, which is unfortunate; takes away so much of the rustic charm. On the south side we continued to see waterfront homes with their waterfront docks; some delightfully decorated and other simply functional. On the north shore there are numerous condo complex sites being constructed with oversized marinas associated with them. From Oyster Bay we moved into Bon Secour River and finally into Mobile Bay. As they say in mariner talk - the water gets wide here - and there is little to look at, other than an occasional passing vessel. We did run across the Coast Guard working on a navigational day marker that shapes our watery path. Mobile Bay is dotted numerous oil derricks and various other working rigs, commercial traffic seemingly going in all directions as well as the ever present sport fishermen running in and out of the gulf passes. We anchored out in the lee of Petit Bois Island, a nature preserve about 20 miles south of Pascagoula. There was little to tuck in behind since there were very few trees on the island, but we managed to settled in a nice quiet spot for the night. Off in the distance we could hear the repeating sorrowful sound of a fog horn.

To Orange Beach ALABAMA

3/5/07 – Hey Toto – We’re not in Florida Anymore!!! Not by much but 35 days later – we’re in Orange Beach, Alabama. We took off across Pensacola Bay in some pretty rough and choppy water this morning and still very cold. It's not wonderful traveling in an open pilot house when it's 40 degrees! Can't wait for warmer weather so we can both defrost. I did have a couple of dolphins come by to play in our bow wave and I knew it was going to be a good day. With a variety of little islands between us and the gulf we had choice of homes along the north shore and clean white sandy beaches on the south to look at. Located on the western tip of Santa Rosa Island is the remains of Fort Pickens, which was the largest of a group of forts designed to fortify Pensacola Harbor; constructed in the 1800's. The cold winds subsided once we entered the Big Lagoon where we again confronted more barges, Lucy and Hunt Girls, which I always wave at while passing. We entered ‘the narrows’ along the intercostals known as the Perdido Key region, more colorful homes painted in what I call the Padre Island theme. These colorful homes are such a treat to the eye, so perky, playful and frisky. We’ve arrived at the Bear Point Marina for a good nights sleep, it’s a larger marina tucked into a nice little cove. Tomorrow we traverse Mobile Bay and Mississippi sound where we expect to see larger vessels as we navigate shipping lanes.

To Little Sabine

3/4/07 - Did I say “never a dull moment”?!? How about 3:30 am the winds are howling and we’re drifting into the abandoned sail boat. Yup, neither anchor seems to be holding anymore, the winds are dragging them, slowly, in unison. Neither anchor would budge when we try to pull them in, but yet neither would hold against the wind. Our only alternative was to cut the stern anchor and let us swing with the wind, which worked for a while until we noticed we were still easing back towards the sailboat (SH**T). We weighed anchor 4 different times, each time trying to get a solid hold, but the winds were too strong. Even though the sun had not quite yet rose, we decided to make a run for it, only to have a barge, at a snail's pace mind you, enter the bay. It’s not a big channel and very shallow water on either side, so we had no choice but to wait. Tom danced the boat around for a bit until the channel was clear. We felt it was better to move forward then take any chance banging into another vessel, so we departed at 6 am. It’s very cold at that hour of the morning in the pilot house even without a 40 deg wind chill. The weather did not improve as the sun rose behind us.

We did pass by Fort Walton Beach, which seem to be a great little town, again lots of cool houses dotting the shoreline and there was a military training ground of some sort along the south shore for miles.

It’s not easy keeping a 35 ton vessel traveling in a straight line with strong winds pushing you, can you image how it must be for a tug pushing a couple of barges? We passed such a vessel, very closely.

After a short rough 37 miles, we opted for another night at a marina – warm, safe and secure. If the weather was better this would be a great little spot to go exploring, but since it’s still so cold outside, we’ll have to postpone any outings for tonight. We’ve docked at the Beach Marina in Little Sabine Bay just east of Pensacola. The sand bar just to our starboard has been occupied all day with various birds, either grounded or simply hunting for food. Since I wanted to release our third little stowaway I opted for a safe place under the boardwalk, far from watchful eyes.

To Joe's Bayou

3/3/07 – It seems every day there is something new to experience on this trip, truly, never a dull moment and I’ve come to appreciate all of them. We cruised across the St. Andrews Bay and entered the West Bay Creek, where we knew it would become tapered. Just at the entrance of the creek they were putting in new pylons, I’m sure all the workers wore ear plugs it was the loudest BOOM BOOM I’ve heard; interesting operation. I also saw my first seaplane today.

Just on the other side of the bridge was a slow moving barge. Ugh! There was no room for us to pass and being the larger, less maneuverable vessel he had the right of way. For close to 10 miles we had to follow behind this barge (Captain Dean) at a screaming 4 knots. It’s not like we go very fast anyway at 7-8 knots but it really made us slow way down. I drove for a wee bit and took the opportunity for (you guessed it) tea and coffee. We passed by what was called the "little grand canyon" and other remarkable shorelines. After about 1-1/2 hours the barge pulled over to the right and stopped is engines, allowing us to pass. Actually, it turns out there was another barge coming downstream and this was the widest part of the creek to enable them to pass each other.

After we got ourselves back up to speed (haha) we soon came upon a big red thing being maneuvered by a tug. Turns out it was a dredger (as the tug captain informed us – oops) It was hooked up with miles of piping and other little red pieces of dredger. This was a very intriguing operation, the miles of pipe go up and over the banks, delivering and separating the silt and/or creek bottom then depositing the solid and pumping the water back into the creek. See, everyday it’s something new. We’ve anchored in Joe’s Bayou off the Choctawhatchee Bay for the evening. There are 3 other vessels anchored here, one is a rust bucket and the other two look abandoned. There would appear to be an airport close by, we’ve seen a few older bombers fly by with landing gear down. I caught a baby lizard today, and will keep it until he hit dry land. I think we caught his mama in Panama City and already put her ashore there. We were blessed with another beautiful sunset tonight.

On Hold in Panama City

2/28- 3/2/07 – We passed a brand new tanker this morning apparently pumping out its ballast, it was an enormous amount of water! We pulled into Panama City pretty early in the day so we’d have plenty of time to get the water pump and install it. One gentleman in the office overheard us asking for directions to a marine store and quickly offered up his friend to give us a lift; he only asked that we return the favor to another cruiser stranded in our home port. AH HA! That’s how it works! Pretty cool system – again, what goes around comes around. With a new water pump installed we had the rest of the day to walk around the city. It would appear that we are in ‘old town’ and it’s not very big. We were able to do two trips to the store and walk the piers checking out other boats. Some merchants appear to be working very hard at improving the ambiance of this general area; there are a number of ‘antique’ stores, various eateries and for some strange reason a large number of attorneys. Perhaps Panama City is a district seat for the courts or something.
Each time I look overboard more and more jellies become visible in the marina. There always seems to be some attention-grabbing creature to watch on this journey.
After watching the weather channel (It’s great to have cable TV) we’ve decided to hold up one more day here in calmer waters. Good thing, even here in the marina, which inside the bay, the waters are a pretty wicked chop. So we’ll take another down day and as they say ‘wait for our weather window’. After this storm passes, in a day or two, we expect to have nice weather along the intercostals for the next several days as we continue to head west!

To California Bayou

2/27/06 – We both woke up around 5am; it was so dark we could not see our hands in front of our faces and so very quiet outside it was downright eerie. We went out on the aft deck to discover we were in an incredibly solid fog. Whelp, nothing to do about that but go back to sleep and hope it was lifted when we awoke again. When we did, a few hours later, it was a little thinner but we then noticed how much the tide had gone out and there were little sandbars all around that weren’t there the night before. Pulling anchors was a little trickier since we didn’t want to edge any closer to the sandbars, but Tom managed just fine without incident. Today we left the gulf for the quieter waters of the intercostals. Passing the Gorrie Memorial Bridge we saw lots of little fishing boats, doing what I assume is clamming. They were using hole diggers with wire nets. We entered at Apalachicola Bay and passed a fleet of fishing boats then the surroundings quickly became marshy. The water returned to the root beer color we’ve seen so much of inland. We did see a few bald eagles, and of course the ever present, entertaining dolphins. We only passed one other cruising vessel so for the most part we were the only vessel on the river. The terrain changed from marshlands to tall pine, still keeping the backwater atmosphere. We did pass an occasional fisherman either on shore or in their little boats along shore. As you would imagine, there were numerous houseboats tucked in bayous and inlets along the river. It was by far one of the most pleasurable and relaxing days we’ve had. We anchored in the California Bayou of East Bay about 300 yards from shore using two anchors again. There is a military base across the bay and numerous times today we were buzzed by jets; tonight we’ve seen (and heard) them take off. At night you can see the jet engine flames. Somewhere along our route today we changed into central time.

To Dog Island

2/26/07 – (Happy Birthday Charlie!) We settled up our bill with Sherri, the owner of River Haven, and we were seen off by Bill and Thomas, such good guys. It was pleasure to meet them and I sure hope to run across their paths again someday. I imagine we’ll keep in touch regardless. Our gulf crossing was very mild and uneventful; other than an occasionally dolphin swimming along side or in our bow wave. We made about 72 miles and anchored out in a small bay of Dog Island, one of many in the St. George Sound. This should be the last we see of the big open water for some time as we can re-enter intercostals again tomorrow. Just as we put out our anchors I spotted a large jelly swimming by, it was beautiful shades of pink and purple. Dog Island appears to be a small island with some houses on it, also listed is a small runway for planes – however and fortunately I don’t see it from here. This is the type of island you can image that would not be inhibited and the white sands are virgin, never before stepped on by man. The various birds flap and croon as they search for food plucking along the ground. It’s tranquil here and hopefully no other boats will join us tonight in this quiet little bay. Well our water pump finally died tonight, it’s been singing a sad tune for some time. This just means I can’t cook because I can’t clean dishes – sounds good to me. We will need to find a marine store in the next few days to purchase a water pump. Just before bed we sat on the aft deck enjoyed the soft hues of the sunset while listening to a hooting owl.

On Hold in Steinhatchee

2/24-25/07 – Following my worst day ever arriving in Steinhatchee has been a blessing. We could have left again yesterday, but I seriously needed a breather from ocean travel. Besides the folks here are the nicest I’ve met in a long time, real down-home friendly – they make you want to stick around for a while. Saturday, Captain Bill of TowBoatUS drove us over 30 miles (to Cross City) to get a prescription renewed and since the wait would be over an hour we went out to eat at a real comfy little place called Cypress Inn with home style cook’n, it was simple and very good. We spent a good part of the afternoon walking around Steinhatchee and taking pictures. It’s not a big town, again only one grocery store, but it appears to be adequate for just about anything you’d need.
Apparently scallops are a big thing here; the season being July-Sept and most locals anchor out and go a-scalloping. Two fans of scallops are Norma & Joe, live close by and have two boats docked here; one being a houseboat, and they spend lots of time at the marina. Cap’t Bill runs the TowBoatUS service here at River Haven and boy does he have a gazillion stories to tell about his adventures. (He should write a book) Everyone we’ve met here is very knowledgeable about marine mechanics and boats in general; they all share their expertise and equipment without hesitation. There is a sense of giving and karma, "what goes around comes around" kinda stuff. The five of us had an enjoyable BBQ on Joe’s house boat Sat. night. The other folks that populate the marina are; Thomas - a young man (19) who works here and does just about anything and everything that needs doing, under the watchful eye of Bill – who actually does live here and Toni - the gal that works in the office/marina/store for Sheri the owner. There are also various dogs that come and go, which everyone knows, as well as two parrots that spend their days perched during business hours. Our weather watch told us that Sunday would not be a good day for the gulf, seas around 4-6’. Luckily for me its one more day docked in a safe harbor and one more day to settle my head and stomach before venturing back out. The only good weather window looks to be Monday for our last little jaunt across the gulf so we’ll be off tomorrow. I’m not sure if we’ll be anchored out or docked close to internet, but I will keep ya’ll posted when I can. On our last night here we took Bill out to dinner at one of the local restaurants "Roys". Bill has so many life experiences; we listened to interesting stories all night. Turns out another of Bill's talents is wine-making. He gave us a bottle of persimmon wine which we intend to keep chilled until we can celebrate our arrival at our home port.

To Steinhatchee

2/23/07 - Our day started out with a beautiful sunrise and departure, but once out in the gulf the seas rose to 2-4' winds out of the northeast and I became a green-eyed monster. My worst seasick day ever - even though Tom did a magnificent job of driving through the rough waters. We radioed ahead to the River Haven Marina in Steinhatchee for dockage and were met at the docks by Captain Bill of TowBoatUS, who guided us in around 7pm after 12 dreadful hours at sea. The only good thing I can say about this day is that it's over!

To Crystal River

2/22/07 – (Happy Birthday Alex) We awoke around 2am to a much muted engine sound and looked out to see a very strange vessel pass by only to turn around and go back to where it came. We both figured it was a ferry by the shape, just didn’t understand what it was doing out at 2am. We learned later this morning, after seeing what we think is the same boat, it was a floating gambling casino. That explains the 2am cruising lit up like a Christmas tree. We’ve reached the point of our journey where the Florida intercoastal waterway ends and a decision must be made – which way to go from here. We can either cruise up and around ‘the bend’ or cut straight across the gulf. Easy choice actually, without radar we’re not about to go out THAT FAR in open water. We were out over 3 miles today and lost sight of land altogether, and that was far enough for me. However, this person I’m traveling with thought it was pretty awesome. Who is this person anyway? Hey, we were pulled over today – in the middle of the ocean - can you believe it?!?! The US Customs and Boarder Patrol pulled up along side and boarded us. Out in the middle of nowhere! I guess we do look suspicious after all; strange looking boat with no name on the stern. We spent over 45 minutes bobbing around like a cork while they went through our documentation and drawers. After they confirmed everything we told them, they left just as stealthy as they appeared. But the worse thing is (and I could kick myself) I forgot to take any pictures!!! After that the rest of our day was pretty normal. We cruised up over 3 miles on the Crystal River only to find the marina closed. So we docked at their fueling station and then walked into town (about 1 mile) for dinner at a nice little Mexican restaurant and did a little grocery store shopping. Sorry to say the Crystal River is not very clear. We had read you could see the bottom, and that the water was generally 72 deg- which attracted lots of manatees, we never saw either. I did see –what I think is- lots of manatee poop, not sure what else it could be – judge for yourself by the photo. Anyway Crystal River was very tropical looking as you approached, (even with the water towers) but once into the lake area it lost its charm (especially with lots of poop floating in the water).

To Anclote Key

2/21/07 - We awoke in the early hours to get a jump on the day but as we were leaving got grounded (briefly). Fortunately with a sandy bottom we were able to wiggle ourselves off. Our passageway crossed the Tampa Bay main approach channel for commercial vessels and we were hoping to get through early. Still, we found ourselves playing chicken with a massive tanker upon his approach – he won. The best part watching this tanker stream by was the dolphins’ flying out of the water as they played in the bow wave. Those dolphins do know how to have fun! We skirted the Sunshine Skyway Bridge for a few miles then cut westward towards more narrow channels and condos. Five miles in we discovered the only short bridge we needed to be opened would be out of commission until 3pm. The gods must be shinning on Tom today, so we backtracked to first next gulf opening. As we entered the channel to the gulf a US Custom Boat pulled up along side and ‘checked us out’, but then took off as quickly as they appeared. Guess we don’t look TOO suspicious. The winds were at our back for the most part so the passage was relatively smooth. Without having to worry about our depth it was very enjoyable. We opted to skip by Clearwater and headed straight for Anclote Key, just west of Tarpon Springs. I’ve seen my first lighthouse this trip located on the key, which is also a nature preserve. I did get a little green during the last hour or so of our gulf journey, but it passed quickly once we anchored for the night tucked in behind the key.

To Longboat Key

2/20/07 – The water was a mirror this morning as we left our anchorage at Cape Haze; so smooth and green. There were no other boats out yet and it was so serene and still. We skirted a number of small islands some inhabited and some not, maneuvered our way through shallow waters and shoals. As in Charlotte Harbor yesterday, we entered San Carlos Bay and found ourselves again tempted by the Gulf of Mexico. We were rewarded today by more dolphins playing. It was amazing to watch them swim in our wake, along side the boat and the bow wave. I also spotted two bald eagles today, but was unable to snap their picture. Just seeing them in the wild was awesome. It was a very unique narrow channel as we approached Venus, FL. There are walkways on each side of the channel, each busy with walkers, bikers, runners, strollers and folks just fishing. I waved to so many people along that route I felt like I was on a float in the Rose Parade. Roberts Bay and Sarasota Bay were just vast bodies of water, too far from the shores to see anything of interest. We’ve anchored tonight just south Cortez Bridge in Longboat Keys with about 6 other boats. We set two anchors tonight so we would not swing - and we never moved. From the stern we could see the city lights of Sarasota, as well as an immeasurable ceiling of stars.

To Cape Haze

2/19/07 - What a splendid uneventful day this was. Throughout our travels on the ICW we’ve transitioned from river to canal and back to river but the waters’ color seldom changed; for the most part it remained a grimy russet shade. I noticed it changed as we entered into the San Carlos Bay and said good-bye to the Okeechobee waterway. The waters became green and for the first time I could actually smell the ocean in the air. We began to see dolphins (real ones) swimming around the bow of the boat and seaweed was very prevalent, probably kicked up by the storm yesterday. We passed by Fort Myers (downtown) and dozens of little islands before entering Charlotte Harbor, where we saw the gulf for the first time. We considered taking a sharp left and heading out across the gulf for a straight shot to Texas, but thought better of it and decided to stay our course of inland waterways. We anchored in a nice little cove (Cape Haze) surrounded by terrific little homes with about 4 other boats. The sunset was soft tonight as we enjoyed a cup of tea and coffee on our aft deck. We sat and watched as an Osprey attempted to catch his dinner, a couple of times, unsuccessfully. Think they eat bread?

It's a No-Go Today

2/18/07 – We awoke to a frightfully wet and windy storm this morning and being the prudent mariners that we are we listened to the NOAA weather forecast on VHF. It’s a no-go today; seas in the bay at 4-6 feet and winds up to 30 knots, so we stay one more day at the Sweetwater Landing just outside Fort Myers. It’s a good thing to know when to go and when to stay. The rain stopped and even though the skies are clear, the winds intensified to gale force this afternoon. We managed to get out and take a little stroll and were very surprised to find white caps on the canal. The winds finally settled down and we had a good nights sleep.

Underway Again 2

2/17/07 – Finally got our rebuilt transmission installed back in the starboard engine as well as new oil cooler. But now we have a small exhaust leak, which Tom feels he can fix once we reach Texas. We’ll just be sure to keep the rear hatch open (while underway) for circulation and pray it does not get worse. (it’s always something!) It got down into the 30’s last night which made for a very chilly departure this morning; we even had frost on the dock. There was a slight fog hovering over the water which reminded me of home. We wrapped the pilot house in a commercial ‘saran wrap’ – looks goofy, but hey it cut the wind chill down, which is very important in 30/40 degree weather! Our first lock today was rather unnerving; Tom discovered neutral, as is posted on the shifter, did not agree with the transmissions. The lock masters at the Ortona Lock were very understanding as we awkwardly attempted to come along starboard side and grab a hold of the lines, while keeping our big stern out of everyone else’s way. Following that graceful lock-through, and well out of waterway traffic, we investigated exactly where our neutral positions are, and once discovered -marked the shifter with a nice big black line! (Something else that goes on Tom’s ‘to do’ list once we’ve reached Texas). We passed by a quiet old river town called LaBelle also known as a honey capital and we did see a few of the local bees. The town is holding their annual Swamp Cabbage Festival next weekend. If we had not already spent so much time docked elsewhere – we would have stuck around for it. Also quite notable is the light sweet scent in the air as you pass by the many orange orchards currently in bloom. We’ve read stories about the Fort DeNaud Swing Bridge Mistress, who always wears a red hat and were told to be sure to wave to her as we passed by. It’s pretty cool that she actually walks out to the center of the bridge and rides along while it swings open. Today she wore a red scarf, I imagine because it was so cold. The final lock on the Okeechobee waterway (Franklin Lock) is being worked on and only schedules openings every few hours. We had over an hour for west bound lock-through so we decided to dock at a small campground to the north of the lock. This was a good test for Tom’s new understanding of the transmissions. It was a welcome escape from the cold winds of the pilot house; I made tea and coffee. Our lock-through was uneventful, thank god. The waterway, into the landing we chose, is relatively narrow but Tom managed a superb turn ‘on-a-dime’ and pulled us up starboard side to tie off for the night. Tom say’s I’m becoming quite the expert myself at handling lines.