To LaFitte (through New Orleans)

3/8/07 – We awoke to fog so took our time getting underway. Barges continue to tug along the GIWW (Gulf Intercostal Water Way) so we tucked in behind one of them as we pulled back into the canal. Not long thereafter we were sandwiched between the barge and another tug. The boat traffic became more and more relentless the closer we got to New Orleans. The GIWW crosses paths with numerous deep-water canals which connect directly to the Gulf of Mexico, it all becomes so industrial. Throughout the day the damage caused by Katrina was unmistakable in all directions. We did see a few vessels ‘on the hard’ and found ourselves actually lusting after their windows – wonder who has salvage rights? Our first difficult task of the day was the Industrial Locks. When we radioed the lockmaster, we were instructed to tie up off on the port side and wait, which we did. With the amount of boat traffic it is not uncommon to have to wait your turn. 30 minutes later out comes two side-by-side barges and in we go. It seemed rather silly us being the only vessel in this large lock, but it was great not having to share the space. Now I understand the phrase, “Mississippi mud” at least in color. The water is liquid mud and when it’s calm it’s like a Hershey’s milk chocolate bar. The Mighty Mississippi River is overcrowded with vessels of all sizes and shapes, everywhere. Upon entering the river we passed by a Navy vessel and had to avoid the Admirals’ Dinghy which was approaching from the opposite bank.
There is a choice of two locks to take through New Orleans, the Harvey Lock (granddaddy of all locks) and the Algiers Lock. Apparently the Algiers is mostly used by commercial, so we’re traveling upstream to the Harvey. It was a very intimidating 4 miles. Tom doing his best to stay off to the right and well out of the mainstream was hailed on the VHF radio, “Small white pleasure craft - this is Navy Security, please switch to channel 77” (Oh Sh**T) what now?!?! Apparently there is a Navy vessel just ahead that we are too close to; Ok, no problem. There were 3 navy skiffs surrounding this mysterious vessel, each skiff had guns on their bows and one actually road along with us till we were well enough away. By the looks of her we think it was a guided missile frigate – not sure what it was doing downtown New Orleans. The only problem with pulling back into the mainstream was the behemoth behind us, and getting closer every minute. We decided to pull over and wait under a bridge for it to pass, since traveling upstream (against current) we are doing about 5 knots and it was doing more like 10. Only a few more miles and we reached the Harvey Lock, where again, we were told to pull up to port and wait. This time there was nothing to tie off to so we bobbed in place and fought the river current for close to 45 minutes. Upon entering, the lock master informed us that anyone on deck had to wear a life vest. With our vast experience at locks this was the first time we’d heard this, but hey, we made the fashion statement. Leaving the lock we entered into an avenue of shipyards, it was like driving down an alley behind the river; so many places fixing and building ships of all sizes. (And lots of debris to maneuver around) Within the hour the canal became more scenic as the settings were much more relaxed. There were lots of nice houses and small working boats on both banks. We decided to tie up at the C-Way Marina on the Barataria Waterway, in the city of Lafitte. This was probably our worst dockage ever – not Tom’s driving but the marina itself. One of the first planks I stepped on flew up and almost smacked me right in the face. It felt like candid-camera. We did not have power, but were happy to be tied up somewhere for the night. Today was very demanding, but it was so awesome!